Nestled in the heart of West Wales, Carmarthen is often heralded as the oldest town in Wales. A place where myth and history intertwine, Carmarthen’s streets are steeped in tales of ancient kings, medieval traders, and a splash of wickedness to balance out its wonderful charm.
The Mythical Beginnings: Merlin’s Town?
Carmarthen’s name, Caerfyrddin, is often associated with Merlin (Myrddin), the legendary wizard of Arthurian lore. Legend has it that Merlin was born in a cave on Bryn Myrddin, a hill overlooking the town. While there’s no definitive proof, the link between the town and the famed wizard has persisted for centuries. Local tales warn against cutting down Carmarthen’s ancient oak tree, known as Merlin’s Tree, as its fall was said to herald the downfall of the town. When the tree was uprooted in 1854, floods and misfortunes followed—convincing many of the truth behind the old prophecy.
The Roman Influence: Moridunum
Long before Merlin’s tales, Carmarthen was a thriving Roman settlement known as Moridunum. Established around 75 AD, it served as a key administrative and military centre in Roman Britain. Its amphitheatre, one of only seven surviving in the UK, hints at the bustling entertainment scene of the era. Gladiatorial combat, executions, and perhaps even wild animal hunts would have drawn crowds to the site, which still stands today as a hauntingly evocative ruin.
The Medieval Market Hub
By the Middle Ages, Carmarthen evolved into a vital market town. Its riverside location along the Towy made it a prime trading post, and its reputation for producing quality goods attracted merchants from across Wales and beyond. The town’s medieval castle, originally built by the Normans in the 12th century, loomed over the bustling streets, a reminder of both protection and power.
The town became infamous for its sometimes violent power struggles. During the Glyndŵr rebellion of the early 15th century, the castle and town were repeatedly attacked. In one particularly wicked moment, the townsfolk reportedly turned on their English garrison, siding with Glyndŵr’s forces to reclaim the town.
The Wicked Side: The Black Book of Carmarthen
Carmarthen has its fair share of darker history. The Black Book of Carmarthen, a 13th-century manuscript written in Welsh, contains some of the earliest references to Arthurian legends. Yet, its pages are also filled with ominous poetry and prophecies, some of which hint at doom and destruction. The book, now housed in the National Library of Wales, has intrigued historians and folklorists alike, with some speculating it was written by monks who dabbled in the occult.
One of the more sinister aspects of the town’s history lies in its judicial past. Carmarthen was no stranger to public executions. Gallows Lane, a now-picturesque street, was once the site of public hangings. Criminals and the unlucky alike met grim ends, their deaths serving as a deterrent in an age when justice was swift and often brutal.
The Wonderful: The Golden Age of Agriculture and Culture
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Carmarthen became a centre of Welsh culture and agriculture. Its livestock market was one of the largest in Wales, drawing farmers and traders from miles around. The introduction of the railway in 1852 further cemented the town’s importance, bringing prosperity and a boom in population.
Culturally, the town thrived too. The establishment of the University of Wales Trinity Saint David in the 19th century added a scholarly air, and Carmarthen’s rich Welsh-language heritage was preserved through poets, bards, and storytellers. The town became known as a hub for Welsh nationalism, with gatherings and eisteddfodau ensuring the Welsh language and culture remained vibrant.
A Town of Contrasts
Carmarthen today is a captivating blend of the ancient and modern. Its cobbled streets, historic architecture, and bustling markets echo the town’s rich past, while its shops, cafes, and arts scene showcase its vibrant present. Visitors can explore sites like the Roman amphitheatre, the remnants of the medieval castle, and the town’s beautiful churches, including St Peter’s, which dates back to the 12th century.
Yet, Carmarthen remains a town of contrasts. Its history is a tapestry of light and dark, a place where legends like Merlin coexist with tales of executions and rebellion. It’s this blend of the wicked and the wonderful that makes Carmarthen so uniquely fascinating—a true gem in Wales’s rich historical landscape.
Final Thoughts
Carmarthen’s history is one of resilience, reinvention, and rich storytelling. Whether you’re drawn to its Roman ruins, enchanted by its Arthurian connections, or intrigued by its darker past, there’s no denying the town’s magnetic appeal. So, next time you find yourself wandering its ancient streets, remember: every stone and corner has a story to tell.
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